Monthly Works May

This post was written in May 2023.

It's already the 12th edition of our monthly series, which began around this time last year. Writing has never been my forte, so each piece demanded a considerable amount of time and thought. Gradually, the collection of works grew, diversifying in themes and stories. Up to this May's edition, a total of 80 complete outfits have been presented, each with its unique narrative. I aimed to provide readers with a vicarious experience through these varied creations, serving as good references. However, feeling the limits of my capabilities after a year, I've decided to take a break. The need for further study and research to offer better content and information has become apparent. I promise to return more evolved and improved. For now, let's introduce the complete outfits for this May.

DRAPERS

- Montecarlo

- 270gms

- wool 100%

Yellow Seersucker Jacket

There's a movie that comes to mind when I see this jacket: La Grande Bellezza (The Great Beauty), an Italian film. Although it's been a decade since its release, the stylishness portrayed in the film feels as natural and unforced as ever. Just a glimpse of the protagonist Jep Gambardella sitting on a sculpture, as seen in the movie's poster, evokes anticipation for the visual pleasure the film offers. Jep is a successful author who enjoys a lavish lifestyle among the elite. Yet, he yearns and wanders in search of 'true beauty'. Though he spends his days in a nihilistic manner without reaching a conclusion, various events lead him to discover his own 'true beauty'.

The movie, which I stumbled upon due to its visual allure, captivated me from start to finish, especially observing Jep's wardrobe. From the casual jackets in various colors to formal suits, meticulous details like glasses and pocket squares, and even Jep's attitude while wearing these outfits, the film might be the best at depicting the beautiful elegance of a middle-aged man. The content is excellent, but the movie is equally charming for its styling alone.

The above-mentioned jacket pays homage to Jep's jacket in La Grande Bellezza. The wearer, in his seventies, not only bore a resemblance to Jep's attitude but also had a profound understanding and exploration of clothing. Despite the jacket's vivid color, it felt manageable, as if his life's experiences and unique aura could tame it. Perhaps, like Jep, he is on his journey to find his 'true beauty', or maybe he has already found it.
 

DRAPERS

- Montecarlo

- 270gms

- wool 100%

Dark Navy Seersucker Double Jacket

The commonly known seersucker originates from cotton fabric. However, this dark navy seersucker double jacket interestingly derives from wool. This aspect is quite fascinating. The technical ability to process animal fiber-like wool into a texture resembling plant fiber-like cotton and weave it is nothing short of astonishing. A blind test would make it challenging to distinguish between cotton seersucker and wool seersucker due to their similarities. This raises a question: is there a necessity to create seersucker from wool? It's a thought worth pondering.

Considering the cost of raw materials, there is a definite difference between wool and cotton. Wool is more expensive than cotton, and creating seersucker from wool, which is typically a cotton fabric, does not seem economically sensible. Additionally, the technical efforts required to manufacture seersucker from wool would also involve significant cost and time. Yet, Drapers chose to produce this seemingly unnecessary material.

The reason is likely to address certain drawbacks found in cotton seersucker. While cotton seersucker is soft, it lacks stiffness, requiring regular care to manage wrinkles despite its comfortable wear. In contrast, wool seersucker maintains softness while providing some stiffness, offering better wrinkle recovery and elasticity. Longevity-wise, animal fibers like wool generally have advantages over plant fibers in maintaining shape and fabric durability. Plant fibers like linen or cotton tend to lose their shape and wear out faster, while animal fibers like wool preserve garment shape and show slower wear and tear. Considering these factors, Drapers' decision to create wool seersucker seems justified.
 

DRAPERS

- H.O.P.E

- 280gms

- wool 73% hemp 15% cotton 12%

Cream Jacket

Among numerous fabric collections, the HOPE collection stands out as the most unique and meaningful. H.O.P.E, standing for 'How to Optimise People and Environment', raises questions about what's best for humans and the environment, implying that hope is embedded in this collection. The HOPE collection focuses on three keywords: natural dyeing, recycling, and the combination of eco-friendly materials. The mentioned jacket is made from eco-friendly materials, notably utilizing hemp.

Hemp is a plant that grows naturally without the need for pesticides and requires little water compared to other plants, making it one of the most eco-friendly fabric options. Moreover, the collection only uses wool from sheep not subjected to mulesing. Mulesing is a practice where the skin around the sheep's buttocks is removed to prevent flystrike, often performed without anesthesia or subsequent treatment. The HOPE collection commits to using non-mulesed wool, making it a truly eco-friendly collection. Wearing garments from this collection isn't just about the fabric but understanding and embodying its deep values.

Dugdale Bros & Co

- Lagan valley

- 340gms

- Linen 100%

Beige Linen Suit

As the weather warms up, there's an increasing demand for linen suits. The beige linen suit I'm introducing is from the Lagan Valley collection by Duckdale. Launched around this time last year, the collection gained popularity quickly, especially during its initial promotion. The Lagan Valley collection uses traditional dressed linen yarn, resulting in a rough and stiff fabric softened through a dry-cleaning process. The linen feels soft and moist, and the overall color palette of the collection features a washed, pastel tone, exuding an antique vibe. For such a fabric, tailoring that enhances its characteristics would be ideal. Jackets with minimal interfacing and unlined construction would suit well, maintaining the jacket's basic structure while offering a light and effortless garment suitable for any occasion.

Sometimes clients request a solid linen jacket without patterns, and my recommendation is to opt for a solid linen suit instead of just a jacket. A solid linen suit is versatile as it can be styled in various ways, offering multiple wardrobe options. While a single suit can stand out on its own, both the jacket and pants can be mixed and matched with different items, providing three distinct styles from one suit. This is not only a practical but also a wise choice.

DRAPERS

- Superbio & Beausoleil

- 370gms

- wool 100%

Charcoal Gray Stripe Suit

When asked about the most frequently crafted suit fabric over the past few years, the answer would undoubtedly be Drapers Superb. Superb is a revamped collection from the FIVE STAR collection and has been the fabric of choice for numerous suits from its inception to the present. It's likely due to its unique yet classic feel. While maintaining the vibrant colors and luxurious sheen characteristic of Italian fabrics, it also possesses the sturdy, dense weave and heavyweight specs typical of British fabrics, making it a well-blended material. The charming qualities of this fabric are sufficient to prove its worth, but it goes a step further by offering value in terms of pricing.

Drapers used to be an independent fabric merchant, but about three years ago, the V.B.C group recognized its growth potential, collaborated with Drapers, and eventually acquired it, becoming the sole owner. V.B.C rebranded Drapers as their high-end line, actively supporting it to produce higher-quality fabrics. As part of a larger corporation and rebranded as high-end, Drapers managed to maintain quality while significantly reducing prices, making it more accessible than when it operated independently. Consequently, the Superb collection, one of the most reasonably priced options among numerous fabrics, has become a favorite among enthusiasts. It's expected that the popularity of Superb will continue this year as well. 

by egon